Son to Hvaler Islands: Summer Perfection

LEG 1.2: SON → TJØME (VERDENS ENDE)

Distance: 18 NM

Duration: 3.5 hours @ 5 kts

Route Character: Outer archipelago; more exposed to Skagerrak swell

Route Description

Depart Son and head southwest through outer skerries toward Tjøme. Route passes through increasingly open water with Atlantic swell influence.

Navigation Waypoints

Departure: Son Gjestehavn (59°27.0'N, 10°30.6'E)
Håøya east cardinal: (59°23.4'N, 10°28.8'E) - Leave to starboard
Rauer lighthouse: (59°18.6'N, 10°27.0'E) - Pass 500m to west
Færder lighthouse approach: (59°01.8'N, 10°31.8'E) - Historic lighthouse on island
Arrival: Verdens Ende, Tjøme (59°06.0'N, 10°23.4'E)

Hazards & Considerations

Rauer reef: Extensive shallow area east of lighthouse; stay in marked channel or pass well to west (500m+)
Bolærne rocks: Submerged rocks south of route; marked by south cardinal buoy (59°16.2'N, 10°25.8'E) - leave to port
Swell influence: Open to southwest swell from Skagerrak; can be uncomfortable in SW winds force 5+
Commercial traffic: Oslo-bound ships pass 2-3 NM to east; maintain watch on VHF 16
Fishing activity: Heavy lobster pot activity April-September; small orange/white buoys, often poorly visible

Current & Tide

Tidal range: 0.4-0.6 m
Current: Variable; influenced by wind and barometric pressure more than tide
Direction: Generally sets SW toward Skagerrak in southerly winds, NE in northerlies
Strength: 0.5-1.0 kts; increases near Færder lighthouse to 1.5 kts
Timing: No reliable slack water; plan for adverse current

Wind & Weather

Prevailing wind (May-June): SW-W 8-15 kts; can build to 20+ kts in afternoon
Exposure: Fully exposed to Skagerrak; sea state builds quickly in onshore winds
Sea state: 0.5-1.5m typical; 2-3m in SW force 6
Fog risk: 35% May; less in June; Atlantic fog can roll in rapidly
Weather signs: If barometer falling and SW wind building, expect deterioration - consider delaying departure
Best conditions: Light N or E winds; depart early morning before SW sea breeze

Destination: Verdens Ende, Tjøme

Coordinates: 59°06.0'N, 10°23.4'E
Depth: 3-7 m
Fuel: None at Verdens Ende; available at Tjøme Havn 3 NM north (59°07.8'N, 10°24.0'E)
Provisions: Small café/shop at Verdens Ende; larger supermarket at Tjøme village
Anchorage: Verdens Ende anchorage in NW-NE winds (excellent holding, 4-6m); harbor at Tjøme village for other conditions
Dining:

Casual/Takeaway: Verdens Ende Café - simple meals, fish soup, sandwiches, NOK 100-180
Phone: +47 33 39 55 00

Restaurant: Wrightegaarden Restaurant (Tjøme village) - traditional Norwegian, seafood, NOK 280-450
Phone: +47 33 39 66 00
Notes: "World's End" - dramatic rocky outcrop; popular tourist spot; anchor uncomfortable in SW winds
Alternative harbor: Tjøme Havn if SW weather forecast
VHF: Channel 16 (no harbor channel)
Language: Norwegian / English

Leg 1.2: Son to Hvaler Islands

Distance: 20 NM

Time: 3 hours

Navigation: Island-hopping begins—follow markers carefully, shallow patches between islands

Character: Norwegian summer perfection—white skerries, pine-covered islands, swimming spots

The Hvaler archipelago is where Norwegians spend their summers. Not tourists (they're all in Geiranger). Just Norwegians in wooden cabins painted red, swimming in cold water, grilling fish, and doing that thing Scandinavians do: being quietly content.

You're entering the skerry coast—hundreds of small islands, rocky, wind-sculpted, covered in twisted pines. Navigation requires attention (rocks lurk), but the sailing is magical.

HVALER ISLANDS [QR-013]

Anchorages: Multiple options - Kjerknesvågen, Asmaløy, Vesterøy

Character: Summer paradise, swimming, hiking, quiet

Facilities: Limited (small shops, some restaurants, mostly self-sufficient)

Hvaler is where you learn Norwegian summer:

Swim in cold water (builds character)
Grill mackerel on a portable BBQ
Sit on smooth granite rocks, watching the sun not quite set (midnight sun effect, even this far south in summer)
Read a book
Do absolutely nothing and feel no guilt about it

Swimming: The water is cold (12-16°C), but Norwegians swim anyway. You should too. Briefly. Then get out and feel alive.

Dining:

🍴 Pollen Restaurant [QR-014] - Asmaløy

Seasonal Norwegian food, local fish
€35-55

🍴 Self-catering:

Small grocery stores on main islands
Buy fresh fish if available
Grill on the boat or on shore (Norwegians allow beach BBQs if you clean up)