Mykonos to Crete: The Long Crossing
Quick provisions: Supermarkets near New Port
Fuel: Available at marina
Dining (if staying overnight):
Kiki's Tavern [QR-433] - Agios Sostis beach, no electricity, cash only, grilled perfection €25-40
Nikolas Taverna [QR-434] - Old port, waterfront, family-run since 1967
CRETE (KRITI) [QR-435]
Coordinates: 35°31'N, 24°01'E (Chania) / 35°20'N, 25°08'E (Heraklion)
Marinas: Chania Old Venetian Harbor or Heraklion Marina
Berth Cost: €40-70/night
Character: Greece's largest island, Minoan civilization, mountains, gorges, fierce independence
🏺 The First Naval Power: Minoan Crete
Before Greece had triremes, before Rome ruled the waves, Crete controlled the Mediterranean.
The Minoans (3000-1100 BC) built the first naval empire. No city walls—they didn't need them. Their walls were wooden: ships. They traded from Egypt to Anatolia, Cyprus to mainland Greece. Their palaces (Knossos, Phaistos) grew wealthy from sea trade: olive oil, wine, pottery, purple dye.
Then, around 1600 BC, the volcano on Santorini exploded. Tsunamis 100 feet high hit Crete's northern coast. Ash blocked the sun. The Minoan fleet was destroyed in a single day.
The civilization never fully recovered. Within centuries, mainland Greeks (Mycenaeans) took over.
The lesson? The sea giveth. The sea taketh away. Often violently.
Shipwrecks: Dozens of ancient wrecks lie in Cretan waters—amphorae fields, bronze-age anchors. Diving them requires permits (archaeological protection), but you'll see pieces displayed in museums.
Marine Life Around Crete:
Fish: Same as the wider Aegean (sea bream, sea bass, octopus), but Crete's south coast (Libyan Sea side) has warmer water, more variety.
Monk Seals: Crete has some of the last Mediterranean monk seal colonies. If sailing the south coast (Matala, Loutro), you might see one. Extremely rare, critically endangered. If you do: consider yourself blessed, keep your distance, don't approach.
Sea Turtles: Loggerheads nest on Crete's beaches (especially Rethymno area). Summer months, you'll see them swimming.
Best snorkeling: Balos Lagoon (northwest), Elafonissi (southwest)—turquoise water, white sand, rocky outcrops with fish.
Two main ports for sailors:
CHANIA [QR-436] - Western Crete, prettier, Venetian harbor
Old Venetian Harbor [QR-437] - Stunning, lighthouse, restaurants along waterfront
Old Town - Venetian/Ottoman architecture, excellent dining
Samaria Gorge [QR-438] - Europe's longest gorge, hiking (day trip)
Dining in Chania:
Tamam [QR-439] - Turkish bath converted to restaurant, Cretan-Ottoman fusion, €30-50
Glossitses [QR-440] - Waterfront, fresh fish, locals' favorite, €25-40
HERAKLION [QR-441] - Eastern Crete, larger, more services
Knossos Palace [QR-442] - Minoan palace, 4,000 years old, €15
Archaeological Museum [QR-443] - World-class Minoan collection, €12
Dining in Heraklion:
Peskesi [QR-444] - Traditional Cretan, farm-to-table, €35-55
Ligo Krasi Ligo Thalassa [QR-445] - "A little wine, a little sea," waterfront, €30-45
Stay 2-3 nights - Crete deserves exploration.
KARPATHOS [QR-446]
Coordinates: 35°30'N, 27°13'E
Marina: Pigadia (main port)
Berth Cost: €35-50/night
Character: Remote, mountainous, traditional villages, less touristy
Between Crete and Rhodes, Karpathos maintains old traditions—women still wear traditional dress in northern villages.
Olympos Village [QR-447] - Mountain village, time capsule, traditional life (bus from Pigadia)
Beaches - Apella, Kyra Panagia (stunning, remote)
Dining:
To Hellinikon [QR-448] - Pigadia waterfront, traditional Karpathian dishes, €25-40
Orea Karpathos [QR-449] - Fresh fish, family-run, €30-45
HALKI [QR-450]
Coordinates: 36°13'N, 27°36'E
Anchorage: Emborio (main harbor), limited space
Berth Cost: €30-40/night or anchor
Character: Tiny island (pop. ~300), neoclassical mansions, quiet, authentic
Perfect stopover between Karpathos and Rhodes—small, peaceful, beautiful harbor.
Emborio Harbor - Pastel neoclassical houses, clock tower
Swimming - Crystal clear water right off the harbor
Dining:
Maria's Taverna [QR-451] - Waterfront, simple Greek food, fresh fish, €20-35
Ftenagia [QR-452] - Family tavern, home cooking, €25-35
Stay 1 night - Quiet, restorative.
RHODES (RODOS) [QR-453]
Coordinates: 36°26'N, 28°13'E
Marina: Mandraki Harbor (medieval, central) or Kolona Marina (modern, south)
Berth Cost: €40-75/night
Character: Medieval walled city (UNESCO), crusader history, largest Dodecanese island
🗿 The Colossus & The Siege That Changed Everything
A Fairy Tale from 305 BC (and 1522 AD)
Part I: The Bronze Giant
In 305 BC, Demetrius "The Besieger"—one of Alexander the Great's successors—attacked Rhodes with 40,000 men and siege towers nine stories tall.
Rhodes held out. For a full year. Against impossible odds.
When Demetrius finally gave up and left, the Rhodians sold his abandoned siege equipment and used the money to build the Colossus of Rhodes—a 110-foot bronze statue of Helios (sun god) straddling the harbor entrance.
One of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
It stood for 54 years. Then an earthquake in 226 BC snapped it at the knees. It fell into the harbor.
For 800 years, the broken Colossus lay in Rhodes harbor—tourists came just to see the ruins. Then, in 654 AD, Arab raiders conquered Rhodes, cut up the bronze, and sold it as scrap. According to legend, it took 900 camels to carry it away.
What remains? Nothing. Not a single piece. Just the story.
But the harbor where it fell? You're sailing into it right now.
Part II: The Knights vs. The Sultan
Fast forward to 1522. Rhodes is held by the Knights of St. John—crusader-monks who fled Jerusalem, conquered Rhodes, and turned it into a fortress-island.
Suleiman the Magnificent, Ottoman Sultan, wants it. He brings 200,000 men and 400 ships.
The Knights? 700 knights, maybe 6,000 soldiers total.
The siege lasted six months. Ottoman cannons fired 1,000 rounds per day. The walls held. Tunnels, counter-tunnels, explosions, hand-to-hand fighting in the breaches.