The Black Sea Crossing: From the Delta to the Bosphorus
PART 4: BLACK SEA CROSSING
Black Sea - Navigation Overview
Distance: Constanța (Romania) to Istanbul (Turkey) - ~250 NM
Time: 30-40 hours (overnight passage)
Character: Open sea, deeper water than Mediterranean, less salty, occasional dolphins
Weather:
Black Sea storms can be severe (especially autumn/winter). Wait for good weather (2-3 day stable forecast minimum).
Best season: May-June, September
Avoid: November-March (storms)
Departure: Constanța or Varna (Bulgaria)
Route: Coastal (safer) or direct (shorter)
Navigation:
- Monitor VHF Ch. 16
- AIS on (shipping traffic heavy)
- Watch for Romanian/Bulgarian/Turkish naval exercises (check NOTAMs)
Black Sea Marine Life:
The Black Sea is unique—lower salinity (rivers dump freshwater), two layers (oxygenated surface, anoxic deep water below ~200m).
Fish:
- Bonito (palamut TR / bonito EN) - Seasonal (autumn), tuna family, oily, grilled, prized
- Bluefish (lüfer TR / bluefish EN) - Autumn/winter, delicate, must be fresh, grilled with lemon
- Anchovies (hamsi TR / hamsi EN) - MASSIVE schools, Black Sea specialty, fried whole, in pilaf
- Mackerel (uskumru TR / mackerel EN) - Grilled, stuffed, autumn/winter
- Turbot (kalkan TR / turbot EN) - Flatfish, expensive, special occasions
- Sea bass (levrek TR / levrek EN) - Grilled or steamed
How Turks cook Black Sea fish:
- Grilled over charcoal (mangal) - Simple, lemon, salt
- Fried (especially hamsi)
- Hamsi pilavı - Anchovies baked in rice, Black Sea regional specialty
- Lüfer - MUST be fresh (degrades fast), grilled lightly
Marine mammals:
- Common dolphins - Often near boats, playful
- Bottlenose dolphins - Less common
- Harbor porpoises - Small, shy
ISTANBUL, TURKEY - THE BOSPHORUS [QR-185]
Coordinates: 41°01'N, 28°58'E
Marina: Multiple options - Ataköy Marina (Sea of Marmara side), Kalamış Marina
Berth Cost: €40-80/night
Character: Where continents meet - Europe/Asia, Bosphorus Strait, Ottoman mosques, bazaars, 15 million people, chaos and beauty
Istanbul is overwhelming.
2,700 years of history. Byzantine Empire capital (Constantinople). Ottoman Empire capital. Largest city in Europe (by population). Mosques, palaces, bazaars, traffic, street food, the Bosphorus cutting through it all.
You need days here. Weeks, really.
Bosphorus Transit:
VHF Ch. 11 (Bosphorus Traffic - monitor constantly)
Traffic Separation Scheme - Follow it strictly (massive cargo ships, tankers, ferries)
Current: 2-4 knots (usually south → north on surface, north → south deep—but variable)
Best time: Avoid rush hours (ferries everywhere), early morning ideal
Navigation: Stay starboard, watch for ferries (they don't slow down), give way to large ships
Spectacular: Sailing through at dawn, minarets silhouetted, call to prayer echoing
Major sights:
Hagia Sophia [QR-186] - Byzantine cathedral (537 AD), Ottoman mosque, now mosque again. Stunning. Free (mosque), but museum section €25.
Blue Mosque [QR-187] - Ottoman (1616), six minarets, blue tiles inside. Free (remove shoes).
Topkapı Palace [QR-188] - Ottoman palace (1478-1856), treasury, harem, Bosphorus views. €20.
Grand Bazaar [QR-189] - Covered market (1461), 4,000+ shops, labyrinth, haggling expected.
Spice Bazaar [QR-190] - Egyptian Bazaar, spices, Turkish delight, tea, coffee.
Bosphorus Cruise [QR-191] - Public ferries (cheap, authentic) or private tours.
Galata Tower [QR-192] - Medieval tower, 360° views. €10.
Provisioning: Excellent—massive city, everything available.
Repair facilities:
Ataköy Marina Services [QR-193]
- Full service
- +90 212 560 4270
Dining:
Turkish cuisine is a joy.
Street food:
- Balık ekmek - Fish sandwich (grilled mackerel, bread, onions), sold from boats at Eminönü
- Simit - Sesame bread rings, everywhere
- Döner kebab - Rotisserie meat, pita, vegetables
- Börek - Pastry, cheese/meat filling
Meze culture:
Turkish meals start with meze (small plates), then main course, then tea.
Common meze:
- Haydari (thick yogurt, herbs, garlic)
- Patlıcan salatası (eggplant salad)
- Cacık (yogurt, cucumber, dill—like Greek tzatziki)
- Dolma (stuffed grape leaves)
- Çiğ köfte (spicy bulgur "meatballs"—vegetarian now, used to be raw meat)
🍴 Mikla [QR-194]
- 1 Michelin star
- Modern Turkish, rooftop
- €100-150
🍴 Çiya Sofrası [QR-195]
- Traditional Anatolian
- Regional dishes
- €20-40
🍴 Karaköy Lokantası [QR-196]
- Meze, seafood
- €30-50
🍴 For fish sandwiches:
Eminönü boats - €3-5
🍴 For kebabs:
Everywhere, but Hamdi Restaurant [QR-197] near Spice Bazaar is excellent
Stay 5-7 days minimum - Istanbul deserves it.