Captain's Log
📖 Pilot Bookcruiser tale

The Bay of Biscay: The Atlantic Gauntlet

S
S/V Magische Pompoen
·14 April 2026·11 min read·France

Leg 3.1: Brest to Audierne (50 NM - SPLIT)

Better: Brest to Camaret-sur-Mer (20 NM, 3 hours)

CAMARET-SUR-MER, FRANCE [QR-414]

  • Protected harbor
  • Marina: €30-40/night
  • 🍴 Le Styvel [QR-415] - Seafood, €30-45
  • Vauban Tower (UNESCO) [QR-416]

Then: Camaret to Audierne (30 NM, 4-5 hours)

AUDIERNE, FRANCE [QR-417]

  • Small fishing port
  • Marina: €30-40/night
  • 🍴 Restaurant Le Goyen [QR-418] - Excellent seafood, €40-60

Leg 3.2: Audierne to Concarneau (35 NM, 5 hours)

CONCARNEAU, FRANCE [QR-419]

  • Walled city on island
  • Marina: €35-45/night
  • 🍴 L'Amiral [QR-420] - Seafood, harbor views, €35-55
  • Ville Close [QR-421] - Fortified medieval town

Leg 3.3: Concarneau to Lorient (35 NM, 5 hours)

LORIENT, FRANCE [QR-422]

  • Famous for sailing, Vendée Globe
  • Marina: €35-45/night
  • 🍴 Le Jardin Gourmand [QR-423] - Michelin star, €80-110
  • La Base des Sous-Marins [QR-424] - WWII submarine base, €8

Leg 3.4: Lorient to Belle-Île (20 NM, 3 hours)

BELLE-ÎLE, FRANCE [QR-425]

  • Le Palais harbor
  • Marina: €40-50/night
  • 🍴 Le Contre Quai [QR-426] - Island cuisine, €35-50
  • Aiguilles de Port Coton [QR-427] - Dramatic rocks painted by Monet
  • Stay overnight - Beautiful island

Leg 3.5: Belle-Île to La Rochelle (75 NM - SPLIT)

Better: Belle-Île to Les Sables-d'Olonne (40 NM, 5-6 hours)

LES SABLES-D'OLONNE, FRANCE [QR-428]

  • Vendée Globe start/finish
  • Marina: €35-45/night
  • 🍴 La Plage [QR-429] - Beachfront, €30-50
  • Vendée Globe Museum [QR-430] - Racing yachts, €8

Then: Les Sables to La Rochelle (35 NM, 5 hours)

LA ROCHELLE, FRANCE [QR-431]

Marina: Minimes Marina
Coordinates: 46°09'N, 1°09'W
Berth Cost: €40-55/night

Beautiful historic port, towers

🍷 La Yole [QR-432] - Michelin star, seafood, €85-120
🍴 André's [QR-433] - Classic brasserie, €30-50

Tours de La Rochelle [QR-434] - Medieval towers, €10
Aquarium La Rochelle [QR-435] - Excellent aquarium, €17
Old Town [QR-436] - Arcaded streets, free to walk

Stay 2 nights - Beautiful city


Leg 3.6: La Rochelle to Royan (60 NM, 8 hours - long)

ROYAN, FRANCE [QR-437]

  • Resort town
  • Marina: €35-45/night
  • 🍴 Le Relais de la Mairie [QR-438] - French cuisine, €35-50
  • Near Bordeaux wine region

Leg 3.7: Royan to Arcachon (60 NM, 8 hours - long)

ARCACHON, FRANCE [QR-439]

  • Famous for oysters
  • Marina: €38-48/night
  • 🍴 Chez Pierre [QR-440] - Oysters, seafood platters, €40-65
  • Dune du Pilat [QR-441] - Largest sand dune in Europe, free, spectacular

Stay 2 nights - Dune du Pilat worth it


Leg 3.8: Arcachon to Capbreton (100 NM - SPLIT INTO TWO)

Leg A: Arcachon to Biscarrosse-Plage (50 NM, 7 hours)

BISCARROSSE-PLAGE, FRANCE [QR-442]

  • Small marina
  • €30-40/night

Leg B: Biscarrosse to Capbreton (50 NM, 7 hours)

CAPBRETON, FRANCE [QR-443]

  • Surf town
  • Marina: €35-45/night
  • 🍴 Le Régalty [QR-444] - Seafood, €35-50

Leg 3.9: Capbreton to San Sebastián, Spain (60 NM, 8 hours - long)

Crossing into Spain!

SAN SEBASTIÁN (DONOSTIA), SPAIN [QR-445]

Marina: Real Club Náutico
Coordinates: 43°19'N, 1°59'W
Berth Cost: €45-60/night

One of Spain's culinary capitals, beautiful beach

Where to Eat:

🍷 Arzak [QR-446]

  • 3 Michelin stars
  • One of world's best restaurants
  • Book months ahead
  • Cost: €250-350

🍷 Martin Berasategui [QR-447]

  • 3 Michelin stars (nearby)
  • €250-350

🍴 Pintxos (Tapas) Bars in Old Town [QR-448]

  • Bar Nestor, La Cuchara de San Telmo, Gandarias
  • Hop between bars, try everything
  • Cost: €3-5 per pintxo
  • Essential San Sebastián experience

🍴 Bodegón Alejandro [QR-449]

  • Traditional Basque
  • €50-75

What to See:

La Concha Beach [QR-450]

  • One of Europe's most beautiful city beaches
  • Walk the promenade
  • Free

Monte Igueldo [QR-451]

  • Funicular to hilltop
  • Panoramic views
  • €4

Old Town (Parte Vieja) [QR-452]

  • Narrow streets, pintxos bars
  • Free to wander

Aquarium [QR-453]

  • Oceanarium, €13

Stay 2-3 nights - World-class food city, beautiful setting


Leg 3.10: San Sebastián to Bilbao (50 NM, 7 hours)

BILBAO (Getxo), SPAIN [QR-454]

Marina: Getxo Marina (outside city)
Coordinates: 43°20'N, 3°02'W
Berth Cost: €40-55/night

Industrial city transformed, Guggenheim Museum

Train/metro to Bilbao city center: 20 minutes

Where to Eat:

🍷 Azurmendi [QR-455]

  • 3 Michelin stars (outside city)
  • Sustainable cuisine
  • Book ahead
  • Cost: €250-350

🍴 Café Iruña [QR-456]

  • Historic café in city
  • Pintxos, traditional
  • Cost: €20-35

What to See:

Guggenheim Museum Bilbao [QR-457]

  • Iconic titanium building
  • Modern art collection
  • Entry: €17
  • Allow 2-3 hours
  • Don't miss

Old Town (Casco Viejo) [QR-458]

  • Medieval streets, pintxos bars
  • Free

Stay 2 nights - Guggenheim alone worth it


Leg 3.11: Bilbao to Santander (45 NM, 6 hours)

SANTANDER, SPAIN [QR-459]

  • Marina: €40-50/night
  • 🍴 El Serbal [QR-460] - Michelin star, €85-120
  • Magdalena Peninsula [QR-461] - Park, palace, beach

Leg 3.12: Santander to Gijón (60 NM, 8 hours - long)

GIJÓN, SPAIN [QR-462]

  • Marina: €35-45/night
  • 🍴 Auga [QR-463] - Michelin star, €80-110
  • Roman baths [QR-464] - Free

Leg 3.13: Gijón to La Coruña (100 NM - SPLIT INTO TWO)

Leg A: Gijón to Cudillero (30 NM, 4 hours)

CUDILLERO, SPAIN [QR-465]

  • Picturesque fishing village
  • Marina: €30-40/night
  • 🍴 La Atalaya [QR-466] - Seafood, views, €30-45

Leg B: Cudillero to La Coruña (70 NM, 9 hours - still long)

Or split again: Cudillero → Luarca (20 NM) → Viveiro (50 NM - still long!)

LA CORUÑA (A CORUÑA), SPAIN [QR-467]

Marina: Marina Coruña
Coordinates: 43°22'N, 8°24'W
Berth Cost: €38-50/night

Historic Galician city

🍴 O Bebedeiro [QR-468] - Michelin star, €85-120
🍴 Pulpeira de Melide [QR-469] - Galician octopus, €20-35

Tower of Hercules [QR-470] - Roman lighthouse (UNESCO), €3
Beaches [QR-471] - Orzán and Riazor beaches

Stay 2 nights


Leg 3.14: La Coruña to Bayona (60 NM, 8 hours)

BAYONA (BAIONA), SPAIN [QR-472]

  • Beautiful Galician port
  • Marina: €35-45/night
  • 🍴 Parador de Baiona [QR-473] - Castle hotel restaurant, €40-65
  • Monte Real Castle [QR-474] - Walk ramparts

Leg 3.15: Bayona to Vigo (15 NM, 2 hours)

VIGO, SPAIN [QR-475]

  • Major Galician city
  • Marina: €35-45/night
  • 🍴 Maruja Limón [QR-476] - Michelin star, €85-120
  • Cíes Islands day trip [QR-477] - Paradise islands, ferry

Leg 3.16: Vigo to Viana do Castelo, Portugal (45 NM, 6 hours)

Crossing into Portugal!

VIANA DO CASTELO, PORTUGAL [QR-478]

Marina: Marina de Viana
Coordinates: 41°41'N, 8°50'W
Berth Cost: €30-40/night

Charming Portuguese town

🍴 Camelo [QR-479] - Traditional Portuguese, €25-40
Santuário de Santa Luzia [QR-480] - Basilica on hill, funicular, views


Leg 3.17: Viana to Porto (Leixões) (30 NM, 4 hours)

PORTO (LEIXÕES), PORTUGAL [QR-481]

Marina: Marina de Leixões
Coordinates: 41°11'N, 8°42'W
Berth Cost: €35-45/night

Portugal's second city, port wine capital

Train/metro to Porto center: 20 minutes

Where to Eat:

🍷 The Yeatman [QR-482]

  • Michelin-starred
  • Port wine hotel restaurant
  • Stunning views
  • Cost: €90-130

🍴 Casa de Pasto da Palmeira [QR-483]

  • Traditional, authentic
  • Cost: €20-30

🍴 DOP [QR-484]

  • Fine dining
  • Cost: €60-85

What to See:

Ribeira District [QR-485]

  • UNESCO old town
  • Colorful riverside
  • Free to wander

Port Wine Cellars [QR-486]

  • Vila Nova de Gaia (across river)
  • Tours & tastings
  • €10-20

Livraria Lello [QR-487]

  • One of world's most beautiful bookstores
  • Inspired Harry Potter
  • Entry: €5

Dom Luís I Bridge [QR-488]

  • Iconic double-deck bridge
  • Walk upper level
  • Free

São Bento Station [QR-489]

  • Stunning azulejo tiles
  • Free

Stay 2-3 nights - Beautiful city, port wine culture


Leg 3.18: Porto to Figueira da Foz (40 NM, 5-6 hours)

FIGUEIRA DA FOZ, PORTUGAL [QR-490]

  • Beach resort
  • Marina: €30-40/night
  • 🍴 A Casa dos Grelhados [QR-491] - Grilled fish, €25-40

Leg 3.19: Figueira to Peniche (80 NM - SPLIT)

Leg A: Figueira to Nazaré (40 NM, 5-6 hours)

NAZARÉ, PORTUGAL [QR-492]

  • Famous for giant waves (winter)
  • Marina: €30-40/night
  • 🍴 A Tasquinha [QR-493] - Traditional, €20-35
  • Sítio viewpoint [QR-494] - Funicular, dramatic cliffs

Leg B: Nazaré to Peniche (40 NM, 5-6 hours)

PENICHE, PORTUGAL [QR-495]

  • Surf town
  • Marina: €28-38/night
  • Berlengas Islands [QR-496] - Day trip, paradise island

Leg 3.20: Peniche to Cascais (45 NM, 6 hours)

CASCAIS, PORTUGAL [QR-497]

Marina: Marina de Cascais
Coordinates: 38°41'N, 9°25'W
Berth Cost: €40-55/night

Upscale resort town near Lisbon

Train to Lisbon: 30 minutes, €2.25

🍴 Furnas do Guincho [QR-498] - Michelin star, €90-130
🍴 Mar do Inferno [QR-499] - Seafood, €35-50

LISBON EXCURSION [QR-500]

Essential Lisbon Highlights:

Belém Tower [QR-501] - UNESCO, €6
Jerónimos Monastery [QR-502] - UNESCO, stunning, €10
Pastéis de Belém [QR-503] - Original pastel de nata, €1.20 each
Alfama District [QR-504] - Old town, Fado music
Tram 28 [QR-505] - Iconic yellow tram, €3
São Jorge Castle [QR-506] - Hilltop castle, views, €10

Where to Eat in Lisbon:

  • 🍷 Belcanto [QR-507] - 2 Michelin stars, €180-250
  • 🍴 Cervejaria Ramiro [QR-508] - Seafood institution, €40-60
  • 🍴 Time Out Market [QR-509] - Food hall, various prices

Stay 3-4 nights in Cascais for proper Lisbon experience


Leg 3.21: Cascais to Sines (90 NM - SPLIT)

Leg A: Cascais to Sesimbra (25 NM, 3-4 hours)

SESIMBRA, PORTUGAL [QR-510]

  • Fishing village
  • Marina: €30-40/night
  • 🍴 Farol [QR-511] - Grilled fish, €25-40

Leg B: Sesimbra to Sines (65 NM, 8-9 hours - still long)

SINES, PORTUGAL [QR-512]

  • Industrial port but safe
  • Marina: €25-35/night

Leg 3.22: Sines to Lagos (80 NM - SPLIT)

Leg A: Sines to Sagres (40 NM, 5-6 hours)

SAGRES, PORTUGAL [QR-513]

  • Dramatic southwestern tip of Europe
  • Marina: €30-40/night
  • 🍴 Vila Velha [QR-514] - Fish cataplana, €30-45
  • Cabo de São Vicente [QR-515] - Europe's southwestern cape, lighthouse, dramatic cliffs

Leg B: Sagres to Lagos (40 NM, 5-6 hours)

LAGOS, PORTUGAL [QR-516]

Marina: Marina de Lagos
Coordinates: 37°06'N, 8°40'W
Berth Cost: €35-45/night

Beautiful Algarve town, stunning cliffs and beaches

🍴 Casinha do Petisco [QR-517] - Portuguese tapas, €25-40
🍴 Dos Artistas [QR-518] - Creative cuisine, €35-50

Ponta da Piedade [QR-519] - Dramatic rock formations, kayak tours
Old Town [QR-520] - Historic center, churches
Beaches [QR-521] - Praia Dona Ana, stunning

Stay 2 nights - Beautiful area


Leg 3.23: Lagos to Vilamoura (50 NM, 7 hours)

VILAMOURA, PORTUGAL [QR-522]

  • Upscale resort marina
  • Marina: €45-60/night (expensive)
  • 🍴 Willie's Restaurant [QR-523] - Fine dining, €60-85
  • Golf, beaches, nightlife

Leg 3.24: Vilamoura to Ayamonte/Vila Real, Spain (60 NM, 8 hours)

Cross back into Spain (border)

AYAMONTE, SPAIN / VILA REAL DE SANTO ANTÓNIO, PORTUGAL [QR-524]

  • Border towns on Guadiana River
  • Marina: €30-40/night
  • Last Portugal or first Spain depending on side

Leg 3.25: Ayamonte to Cádiz, Spain (80 NM - SPLIT)

Leg A: Ayamonte to Mazagón (40 NM, 5-6 hours)

MAZAGÓN, SPAIN [QR-525]

  • Small port
  • Marina: €25-35/night

Leg B: Mazagón to Cádiz (40 NM, 5-6 hours)

CÁDIZ, SPAIN [QR-526]

Marina: Puerto de Cádiz
Coordinates: 36°32'N, 6°18'W
Berth Cost: €35-45/night

Ancient Phoenician city (1100 BC), fascinating history

🍴 El Faro de Cádiz [QR-527] - Seafood institution, €40-60
🍴 La Candela [QR-528] - Tapas, €20-35

Cathedral [QR-529] - Baroque/Neoclassical, €6
Torre Tavira [QR-530] - Camera obscura, city views, €7
Old Town [QR-531] - Narrow streets, plazas

Stay 2 nights - Historic, authentic


Leg 3.26: Cádiz to Gibraltar (50 NM, 7 hours)

Final leg to Gibraltar!

GIBRALTAR, UK [QR-532]

Marina: Ocean Village Marina or Queensway Quay
Coordinates: 36°08'N, 5°21'W
Berth Cost: €40-60/night

British territory, iconic Rock

Where to Eat:

🍴 The Waterfront Restaurant [QR-533] - British/Mediterranean, €30-50
🍴 Bianca's [QR-534] - Italian, excellent, €25-40
🍺 The Angry Friar [QR-535] - British pub, fish & chips

What to See:

The Rock of Gibraltar [QR-536]

  • Cable car to summit
  • Barbary macaques (only wild monkeys in Europe)
  • St. Michael's Cave
  • Cable car: £16
  • Allow half day

Great Siege Tunnels [QR-537]

  • WWII tunnels
  • Entry: £13

Main Street [QR-538]

  • Shopping, duty-free

Europa Point [QR-539]

  • Southernmost tip
  • Views to Africa
  • Free

Provisioning:

  • Morrison's [QR-540]: British supermarket
  • Eroski [QR-541]: Spanish supermarket in La Línea (across border)
  • Duty-free prices on many items

Repair Facilities:

  • Gibdock [QR-542]: Major yard
  • Gibraltar Marine Surveyors [QR-543]

Formalities:

  • Check in with Port Authority
  • UK customs/immigration (even though you're from EU)
  • Get Gibraltar courtesy flag

Stay 2-3 nights - Interesting mix of British/Spanish, good provisioning before Mediterranean


STAGE 3 COMPLETE: Brest to Gibraltar

You've completed the Atlantic coast!

Distance: ~850 NM (coastal route)
Time: 3-5 weeks
Countries: France, Spain, Portugal, Gibraltar

Stage 3 Financial Summary:

CategoryCost (40ft, 2 people)
Marina fees (28 nights)€1,000-1,350
Fuel (850 NM)€1,100-1,350

From From the Lights of Bifröst to the Dawn of Ionia · S/V Magische Pompoen.